Method of making shoes



25 i943. w. F. HERLIHY METHOD 0F MAKING SHOES Filed June 20, 1945 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 May 25, 1948. w. F. HERUHY 2,442,239

METHOD OF MAKING SHOES Filed June 20, 1945 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 51 E@ @Wwf wf,

Patented May 25, 1948 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE METHOD OF MAKING SHOES William F. Herlihy, Haverhill, Mass.

Application June 20, 1945, Serial No. 600,443

4 Claims. l

This invention pertains to the manufacture of footwear and relates more particularly to a novel method of making shoes of the so-called California type.

In California type shoes the edge of the sock lining is customarily stitched to the lower portion of the upper (including the upper lining) before the last is introduced. The upper is provided with a skirt portion or wrapper, extending downwardly below the seam which unites it to the sock lining and the lower marginal portion of this wrapper is turned in under and attached to the sock lining or to a cushion' sole, middle sole or platform adhesively secured to the under surface of the sock lining-the outer sole underlying the turned-ln margin of the wrapper and being permanently secured to the bottom structure of the shoe by appropriate means, for example adhesive.

The attachment of the sock lining to the upper (including its lining) before lasting precludes the introduction of a moulded and flanged heel stiiener or toe boxof the customary type, since the lower edge of the upper lining is anchored directly to the sock lining prior to lasting.

The principal object of the present invention is to provide a novel method of making California shoes having stiifened end portions. Other objects and advantages of the invention will be pointed out in the following more detailed description and by reference to the accompanying drawings wherein Fig. 1 is a diagrammatic side elevation of a conventional California type shoe embodying the present invention;

Fig. 2 is a plan view of a stiifener assembly for use in stiffening one end of the shoe upper and before it is moulded;

Fig. 3 is a section on the line 3-3 of Fig. 2;

Fig. 4 is a perspective view showing the stiffener assembly as it appears after moulding;

Fig. 5 is a fragmentary diagrammatic longitudinal section through the heel end of a shoe of the California type showing the assembled upper and sock lining and moulded stiifener assembly prior to the introduction of the last;

Fig. 6 is a View similar to Fig. 5, showing the rear part of the shoe, including the stiiener assembly of the present invention after completion;

Fig. '1 is a fragmentary section to large scale on the line 'I--1 of Fig. 6; and

Fig. 8 is a diagrammatic perspective view of a moulded toe stiifener assembly useful in the practice of the present invention.

Referring to the drawings, the numeral I designates the outer element of the shoe upper, the shoe comprising the sock lining 2 (Fig. 5) the wrapper 3, the cushion sole or platform 4 (Fig. 6) and the outer sole 5. The margin of the sock lining 2 is secured to the outer member I of the upper by means of stitches B. In accordance with conventional practice the seam comprised of the stitches 6 extends al1 of the way around the sock lining, including both end portions of the latter. In accordance with cus.- tomary practice the cushion sole or platform 4 is united by adhesive at 1 to the under surface of the sock lining 2 and by adhesive at 8 to theouter sole 5. The shoe upper may or may not have a lining, but as illustrated in Figs. 5 and 6, it does have a lining 9, but this lining terminates at the rear end of the shank portion of the shoe at the line IIl (Fig. 5), the part 9 of the lining corresponding to the main portion of the lining of a shoe of the kind in which the quarter lining is made as a separate part and stitched to the main body of the lining.

In accordance with the present invention, one or both ends of the shoe upper are stiffened so as to impart the same effect as obtained in shoes of more conventional types by the use of a moulded counter and toe box.

Preferably the heel end stiffener assembly, in accordance with the present invention, is -of lamellar construction, including a lining element II (Figs. 2 and 3) of appropriate flexible material, for example textile fabric, soft leather, or the like, and a stiffener element I2. This stiffener element I2 may be of any appropriate material such as is customarily used for making a moulded shoe counter or toe box, for example it may be leather, textile fabric impregnated with a suitable stiffening substance, for instance, a resinous material or a cellulose product, or felt material impregnated with a thermoplastic substance such as an asphalt compound. On the other hand, instead of forming the element I2 from sheet material (separate from the lining element II) it may be applied directly to the part II in the form of a coating of appropriate stiening material, for instance one of the synthetic resins, or the like. If the stiffener element I2 be of sheet material, it will be adhesively united to the lining element II, and if the stiffener element I2 be of sheet material it is likewise preferable to bevel its side and lower margins as indicated at I3. The stiifener element I2 is of lesser area than the lining element I I, its lower margin being substantially in registry with 3 the lower edge of the lining element. The margins of the lining element are soft and pliable.

This end stifi'ening assembly, comprising the lining element II and the stinener element I2, is

subjected to a moulding operation in a moulding press, as is commonly done in moulding shoe counters, the lining element with its stiflener element thus being moulded substantially to the shape of the heel portion of the last. After this lampellar stiiIener assembly has thus been premoulded, it is introduced into. the upper (Fig. before the latter has been secured to the sock lining 2 (with the stifiener element I2 in contact with the inner surface of the upper member I and with adhesive interposed between the stift'- ening element and upper, if desired), the side and top margins of the lining element I-I are permanently secured to the member I by a sewed seam I'I, and its lower margin is united to the upper and sock lining by penetrating fastening elements such as the stitches 6. If, as here illustrated, the upper includes a main liner member 9, the edge of the lining element II may be arranged tolap the rear edge I0 of the main part of the lining and the stitches of the seam I1 may pass through both lining elements and through the outer member I of the upper. If no other lining other than the lining element II be employed, the stitches of the seam Il will pass only through the lining element II and outer member I of the upper.

After the premoulded stiener assembly has thus been secured to the upper and sock lining, the last will be introducedinto the upper and the shoe completed in accordance with any desired usual practice,

By this procedure it is possible to provide a California type shoe with a stiffened counter portion and with the stiifening element I2 disposed in a pocket between the lining element II and the outer element of the upper, similarly to the arrangement of the counter in shoes of other types. However, it will be noted that in accordance with the present invention the lower edge of the counter is not provided with a flange.

The above procedure has been specifically set forth with respect to the stiifening of the heel end of the shoe, but it is obvious that a similar procedure may be employed in stiffening the toe portion of the shoe. For this purpose, as illustrated in Fig. 8, there may be provided a toe stiffener assembly comprising a lining element and an associated stiffener element I2, the marginal portion I4'A of the lining element being unstiifened, and after this assembly has been moulded substantially to the contour of the toe end of the last, it is introduced into the upper before lasting and the marginal portion I4* of this lamellar stiffener assembly Will be secured to the upper and sock lining by means of the stitches Ii and the stitches I'I (Fig. 1).

I claim:

l. 'I'hat method of making a California style shoe wherein a sock lining is stitched all of the way around its margin to the upper after which a last is`introduced preparatory to the completion of the bottom structure of the shoe, said method comprising as steps providing a quarter stiifener assembly comprising a. lining element of suitable flexible material and a permanently stiff stiffening element of lesser dimensions than the lining element and which is adhesively bonded to the inner surface of the lining element, the

assembly having soft, pliable margins and the i permanently stiif stiiening element substantially 4 conforming in contour to the contour of the heel end of the last,` disposing the stiffener assembly within the rear portion of the unlasted upper with the stiifening element of the assembly between the upper and lining element of the assembly, stitching the top and side margins of the lining element of the assembly to the upper, uniting the lower margin of the lining element of the assembly to the margin of the sock linfing and to the upper, and thereafter, without impairing the stiffness of the stiifening element, introducing the last.

2. That method of making a California style shoe wherein a sock lining is united by penetrating fastening elements all of the way around its margin to the upper after which a last is introduced preparatory to the completion of the bottom structure of the shoe, said method comprising as steps providing a pre-moulded toe stiifener assembly comprising a lining element of suitable, pliable material and a permanently still stiil'ening element of lesser dimensions than the lining element and which' is adhesively bonded to the inner surface of the lining element, the permanently stiff stiffening element of the assembly substantially conforming in contour to the contour of the toe end of the last, disposing the assembly within the toe portion of the unlasted upper with the stiifening element of the assembly between the upper and the lining ele- I ment of the assembly, stitching the top and side margins of the lining element of the assembly to the upper, uniting the lower margin of the lining element only of the assembly to the upper by the same penetrating fastening elements which unite the upper and sock lining and thereafter, without impairing the stiffness of the said stiifening element, introducing the last.

3. That method of making a California style shoe wherein a sock lining is permanently united all of the way around its margin to the upper after which a last is introduced preparatory to the completion of the bottom structure of the shoe, said method comprising as steps providing a pre-moulded end stiifener including a lining element of flexible sheet material and a permanently stiff stiifening element adhesively bonded to the inner surface of the lining element, the permanently stiff stiifening element of the assembly having substantially the contour of an end portion of the last, disposing the stiifener assembly within the corresponding end of the unlasted upper with the stiffening element interposed between the upper and the lining element of the assembly, stitching the top and side margins of the lining element of the assembly to the upper, permanently uniting the lower margin of the lining element only of the assembly to the upper and to the sock lining by penetrating fastener elements and, Without impairing the stiffness of the stifi'ening element, introducing the last.

4. That method of making a California style shoe wherein a sock lining is permanently united all of the way around its margin to the upper after which a last is introduced preparatory tol the completion of the bottom structure of the shoe, said method comprising as steps providing a pre-moulded, shape-retaining quarter stiffener assembly including a lining element of ilexible sheet material and a layer of permanently stiff stiffening material adherent to the inner surface of the lining element, the assembly substantially conforming to the contour of the heel end of the last and having a soft pliable margin, disposing the assembly within the heel end of the unlasted upper'with the layer oi permanently stiff stiilenins material interposed between the upper and the lining element ot the assembly, uniting the top and side margins of the lining element of the assembly to the upper, securing the lower margin of the lower element only of the assembly to the upper and to the margin of the sock lining by penetrating fastener elements and, without softening the stlliening element, introducing the last.

WILLIAM F. HERLIHY.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are oi record in the ille of this patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 2,341,676 Walsh Feb. .15. 1944 2,348,952 Braun Kay 16. 1944 2,371,703 Moskowitz M31. 20. 1945 2,392,815 Gleason Jan. 15,1946 2,392,816 Gleason Jan. 15, 1946 2,414,104 Kamborian Jan. 14, 1947 

